There's nothing worse than a brew day that won't get off the ground. The good news is that a G30 that won't heat is often down to its built-in safety cut-out rather than a fault, and it's usually a quick fix. Work through the steps below in order. Most brewers are back up and running by Step 2.
Before you start: a quick safety note
If you need to remove the cover under the base of the boiler to take photos of the heating element and wiring, it's important to switch your G30 off and unplug it at the wall first. Never work on the internal wiring while the unit is connected to power.
Never hold, tape or force the reset button in to keep the unit running. The reset switch protects your boiler from overheating, and overriding it can permanently damage the unit and void your warranty.
Step 1: Reset the safety cut-out
Your G30 has a boil-dry protection system. If the base gets too hot, usually because the liquid level is too low or something has burnt onto the base, it switches the element off. The reset process depends on your version.
Original G30 and G30v2 (manual reset button)
- Switch off and unplug your G30.
- Empty out any liquid in the boiler.
- Press the reset button on the underside of the boiler firmly.
G30v3 (automatic reset)
- Switch off and unplug your G30.
- Empty out any liquid in the boiler.
- Let the base cool down fully. The switch resets itself, so there's no button to press.
Once it's reset, plug it back in, switch the unit on at the wall and try again.
Step 2: Clean the base
Check the bottom of the boiler for anything burnt on. Some protein build-up is completely normal when brewing. But if proteins, sugars or grain bake onto the base, they create hot spots that trip the safety cut-out again and again until they're cleaned off.
How to clean burnt residue off the base
Our Grainfather High Performance Cleaner is designed specifically to lift burnt-on proteins. You can find it here: New Zealand | Australia | United Kingdom | Europe. If you're using a different cleaner, follow the directions on its label. For more on why burnt residue builds up and how to deal with it, see Why does the boiler element base of the G30 have burnt material on it?
- Make sure your G30 is empty, then fill the boiler with 7.5 L (1.98 US gal) of water.
- Add 30 ml (1 US fl oz) of Grainfather High Performance Cleaner.
- Set the temperature to 55°C (131°F) and let the cleaning solution warm up.
- For stubborn build-up, raise the temperature to 65°C (149°F) and leave it to soak for 30 minutes to soften the residue.
- Switch off and unplug your G30. Then give the base and sides a good scrub with a soft-bristled brush. Don't be shy here, as you want the base completely clear.
- Empty the cleaning solution and rinse the boiler thoroughly with clean water.
- Reset the safety cut-out (see Step 1), then try heating again.
If your G30 won't heat at all: fill it with hot water from the tap instead, add the cleaner, and leave it to soak before scrubbing.
For the full cleaning routine, see the cleaning section of your Grainfather manual.
Stopping it from happening again
- Scrape the base during the boil. At the start of the boil, and every now and then after that, gently scrape the base with your brewing paddle so nothing settles and burns on.
- Keep enough liquid in the boiler. A low liquid level with a high-sugar wort is a common cause of scorching. Make sure your recipe accounts for the Grainfather's recoverable dead space.
- Check your crush. A good mix of coarse and fine crush helps stop grain settling on the element.
- Use an overflow filter. It helps keep grain out of the bottom of the boiler.
Step 3: Check the basics
- The red switch at the base of the boiler: is it set to "I" (on) rather than "O" (off)? Is it lit up?
- Your control box: make a note of whether you're using the original control box or the Bluetooth control box. We'll ask if you need to get in touch.
Step 4: Test with water
Fill your G30 with water and try bringing it to a boil. Keep an eye on whether it heats at all, heats slowly, or heats and then cuts out.
Step 5: Rule out the controller
This test tells us whether the problem is in the controller or the boiler itself.
- Fill your G30 with water.
- Unplug the heating element plug from the control box.
- Plug the heating element plug directly into a wall socket.
- Switch on and see whether the water heats.
Step 6: Take a look at the heating element (if it still won't heat)
If your G30 still doesn't heat when plugged straight into the wall:
- Switch off and unplug the unit.
- Unscrew the cover under the base of the boiler.
- Take clear photos of the heating element and wiring. Our team will want to see these.
What your results mean
There was burnt material on the base, and it was cutting out. That residue was almost certainly the cause. A good clean and a reset should get you brewing again.
It keeps cutting out, even with a clean base and after resetting. The reset switch is most likely faulty. Get in touch with us, and we can look at a replacement. If we send you one, it will be the newer automatic version, so it may look a little different from your original switch. That's expected.
It heated when plugged directly into the wall. This confirms the controller is the cause rather than the boiler. So a replacement controller will be needed. If you are in our 3-year warranty, get in touch and let us know which control box you're using. If you are out of warranty, a replacement can be purchased on our website.
Controllers can be found below:
If you are upgrading to the Bluetooth Controller, please see below:
I have upgraded to the G30 Bluetooth Controller, what do I do with my Element Variation Switch now?
It didn't heat when plugged directly into the wall. The reset switch is the most likely culprit and the best place to start. Get in touch with us and include your photos from Step 6.
Still not heating? Get in touch
If you've worked through these steps and your G30 still isn't heating, contact the Grainfather Customer Services Team. To help us sort it quickly, please have these ready:
- PO number. It's on the back of the controller.
- Serial number. It's on a thin white sticker underneath the boiler/mash tun.
- Proof of purchase.
- How many times you've used your G30, and whether you had any issues on earlier brews.
- Your results from the steps above, including which control box you use and what happened in the wall socket test.
- Photos of the heating element, if you got that far.
We're brewers too, so we know how keen you'll be to get back to it. We'll get you sorted as quickly as we can.